Hamburg Has A Lot More Than Just Hamburgers

In order to visit a dear friend of mine, my first German friend actually, I traveled to Hamburg for a weekend. I was always told it is the prettiest city in all of Germany. And although it was quite interesting, and nice, the conversation and friendly company trumped it all.

Hamburg is a port city, and was quite vital during the war. Now, the city still uses its port, and the waterways have been deepened for larger ships and cruise ships. The city love its art, and there is an entire theater dedicated to the German version of the Broadway show, Lion King. The city feels young, smaller than the other major cities in the country, and bordering on a quirky urban vibe. I liked it.

The city is not laid out in such a way that one can walk to all the cool, touristy things, so we took the train. Which is elevated for the most part, and you get a great view of the city.

New building for the Hamburg Philharmonic

There are also many parks and such that one can sit, have some ice cream, boat, or fish. 

But the best part of Hamburg, was the friendship I found, a friendship that despite multiple countries and almost 7 years, hasn't deteriorated at all. As we travel and have our unique adventures, we inspire the other to continue to live and grow. Or at least, she inspires me. She is my dear heart, and I firmly believe I would have never traveled to Germany if I hadn't met her (my first trip in the winter of 2008 revolved around visiting her). 

And we had our moments. 

Such as stumbling upon a Scientology church. The first one we have both ever seen. It was closed (thankfully), and kind a creepy. 

And hot chocolate and cake for breakfast, in an, interesting, area of town (if you can, look closely at the pink sign in the background). 

Weekend travels like this, make me realize what my time here is really about. Not to add more and more pins to my world map, but to nurture and grow the relationships I have from the love of travel, my love, and other's love of travel. Crossing off the Van Gogh Museum and Tower of London of my bucket list is all well and good. But what is more rewarding, and more entertaining, is sitting for hours in a cafe gossiping about high school, detailing recent adventures, and laughing. 

A big thank you, to my dearest German friend. 

P.S. And yes, I did have a hamburger in Hamburg. It was one of the best I have had here, but not up to the standard of a Waddells or a Kobe Beef. And I was one of the few in the restaurant to be eating it with my hands, most were using a fork and knife. 

Damn Good Amsterdam

I currently live a two and a half hour drive from the center of Amsterdam. 

Little grey line shows the route. About the distance from Spokane to Moses Lake. 

So I have been. Twice. 

The first was for a big party celebrating the royal family, Kings Day. As it was the first time there has been a King in the Netherlands since the celebration was first, uh, celebrated a few generations ago, it was even a bigger party. With lots of orange. 

Why orange? Well, although the flag of the Netherlands is red, white, and blue, the royal family are a apart of the House of Orange-Nassau. Hence the color orange. 

The second time I went to Amsterdam, I traveled with just one friend, for a quick museum tour weekend. The bus left Friday evening and pulled into Amsterdam right before sundown.  We found our tram, easy peasy, and found the next tram easy as well. We got off at the right stop, crossed the street, and started counting house numbers. When we arrived at the correct one, we were standing in front of an interesting looking souvenir shop. No hostel, no hostel shuttle that we were supposed to catch. We asked a tour bus driver, and after getting a "no", we stood looking around, tired, and confused. My friend spotted an unmarked white van that had pulled up and was perched half on the side walk. She waltzed right up too it, the driver asked her name, and slid open the door. The scarify cat American in me nearly vomited out of fear, but the budding European climbed right in and sat next to a Spanish man with dirty khakis. We wound through the streets of Amsterdam, onto a freeway, and through the old tulip fields to our hostel. The small building of about 20 rooms was situated in a small town, about 500 feet from the beach, squished between 4 star hotels. The air smelled of ocean, and after dropping our stuff we ran to the water. 

Which I found out, is the Nordsee, (North Sea) not the Atlantic. So I still have yet to see the Atlantic. 

The museums we visited were two of the most famous ones in the entire country, the Van Gogh Museum, and the Anne Frank Haus (House). Both were well worth the trip, time, and money (although the tickets really weren't that pricey). 

 Statue of Anne Frank, in the courtyard before the street that has the house

 The front of Anne Frank's House (her father's office)- Middle building. the building to the right is part of the museum. 

 Church behind Anne Frank's house, where she could hear the bells. 

"IAMSTERDAM" Sign next to the Van Gogh Museum. 

But the best part of Amsterdam is not the museums, or the history, or the food, it is the atmosphere. Amsterdam is completely unique. And I strongly advise anyone traveling to Europe to make a stop. The inner city area is easy to navigate after you study the tram and bus maps, reference them to the street maps, and count how many canals you need to cross. The inner city is laid out like a wagon wheel, with the spokes being roads and streets with trams and such. In between each road is a canal, with water taxis, private boats, tour boats. Sometimes the streets are one way. Other times they are not. 

First rule of Amsterdam, know where the hell you are going. Second rule of Amsterdam, not an issue if you get lost. We discovered ice cream stalls and stationary shops down narrow alleys. Stumble into the red light district and you see scantily clad women standing in full length windows, texting. The smell of weed and fries is ever present down the side alleys, but not so on the main streets. 

Sculpture on the ground near the Red Light District. The girls are mainly down skinny side alleys, with the main streets filled of bars and cafes (yes, with weed, but also with amazing fries and waffles). 

Nearly naked girls? What? The World Cup was on, so everyone (except American accented college aged guys) were watching the game.

Third rule of Amsterdam, do not, ever, walk or stand in the bike lane. 

I firmly believe there are more bikes than people in this small country. And if bikes ever turned into human eating zombies, the Dutch would die off first, and very quickly at that. 

And everyone is friendly. Amsterdam is one of the most touristy cities I have ever traveled too. I heard more American English there then I did in London, Berlin, or anywhere else. We also heard just about every other language from countries with an airport. 

Store keepers ask your name and where you are from, then continue asking "what should I really see in America?" (I always answered with San Francisco and a road trip down the Pacific Coast). 

If you plan to be in Berlin, Belgium, Paris, London even, GO TO AMSTERDAM. It is one of my favorite cities now. Everything is said in Dutch and English, sometimes with German or French. The people are incredibly happy and friendly. The shopping is great, the food better, and the atmosphere cool and chill. And as the city was not destroyed during the war, it oozes history and cool architecture. 

Go, book your ticket, I have a great recommendation for a hostel on the water. 

I May Have Forgotten How To Study, But I Still Remember How to Procrastinate

Tomorrow I face one of the biggest challenges in my 24 year old life.
And it is not changing the diarrhea diaper of a screaming toddler.
Or figuring out how to get rid of flies in a house that has no screens on its doors or windows, or AC.

Tomorrow, I wake up at 4:30am (the earliest wake up time for me that doesn't involve catching a plane), and take one bus and two trains, then walk fifteen minutes to a high school in the city of Hamm, where I will take a German Language Proficiency Exam.

If I pass this test (Level B2, lowest is A1 and highest is C2), I can apply for a work visa, and possibly get hired. I would also be considered by the German government as being an "intermediate" in the language.

Why take a language proficiency test in a language that has about 70% of its native speakers also speak English?
Why study German, no longer a leading language in the international business world, anyway?

Well, the answer is simple. I like art.

I first started studying German as my foreign language in high school. As I went to an incredibly tiny high school, we didn't have a language teacher. So, in order to take Spanish, you had to give up your Fine Art credit and get bussed to a near by school to take it there. Or you could take another language online (they wouldn't let me take Spanish online as it was already "offered".) A friend was taking German. So, wanting to keep my art class, I signed up for German at the age of 16.

I met my good German friend at the age of 17.
I met the now current Boyfriend at the age of 18.

Christmas of 2008, I was turning 19 and headed to Germany for the first time (I actually flew out on Christmas day, a birthday present to myself. However there was a huge snow storm and the family and I stayed in Amanda's itty bitty Cheney apartment for Christmas Eve so I could get to the airport on time. In true Mills fashion, we packed the car full of everything we needed for a holiday, including a half cooked turkey, presents, my suitcase, and the year old Harley. After I flew out, the family was snowed out of the house for a few days). I had taken a semester in college, figuring it would cover my language requirement.

In spring of 2009, I was told I should apply for a German Language and Culture January trip through Whitworth. I applied and got in. One of the requirements was to take a second year of the language.

Fall of 2009, I changed my major to International Studies-History and needed a minor in a language, well, German then.

January of 2010, I was 20, and headed to Germany for the second time, this time for 3 weeks.

Spring of 2010, I changed my major to Psychology, and realizing I only had a year left of German to get the minor, decided to sign up for one more year.

Spring of 2011, I finished the German minor, and believed I was done forever with "der, die, das."

Fall of 2012, after graduating the spring before, and already holding two jobs after graduation, I was bored and really bored and decided to go on an adventure.

Spring of 2013, I signed a contract for a live in au-pair job in northern Germany. Cause I "know the language".

October 30th, 2013, I arrive in Germany. And realize I don't "know the language".

Spring of 2014, I realize my German has improved to the point of me able to do the following all in German:

• figure out how to turn a printer into a scanner 
• extend my visa 
• talk to children
• talk to everyone else
• order food
• online shop
• cook
• listen to the radio
• eavesdrop
• travel
• recognize accents and languages from other countries
• buy shampoo/makeup/contact solution
• read fashion magazines
• read the newspaper

And so, when it came time for me to take this test (which I signed up for in April, but as I haven't taken a test in about 3 years, I wasn't really thinking about it. Or studying), I was extremely worried. 

Really. My German is casual and day to day. They want me to conduct a presentation then answer questions about it (on a topic I will get fifteen minutes before)? They want me to listen to audio tapes and answer in writing? They want me to wake up before dawn and travel to take the equivalent of the  PSAT (preparatory SAT) verbal and written test in German, in Germany, with all the instructions done in German?

So what did I do in the weeks left to prepare?

I started watching the Office from episode one. I may have forgot how to study, but I will never forget how to procrastinate.  

And realized three things. 

1. I am basically female version of Michael Scott with less sexual jokes in Germany. 
2. Now I can teach a German Shepard commands in German. And really the only other person you know who can do that is Dwight. 
3. If I fail this test, then it means........I can't get a Visa that I wouldn't be allowed to get as I have stayed on another Visa to the expiration date anyway. I can retake the test in Seattle. Or in Germany next year. Or never ever again. 

Because really, like my dear mother, and perfect boyfriend, and insightful foreign friends have stated, taking a German Language Proficiency exam in Germany is an accomplishment unto it self. 

I mean, how many people can speak/write/read a language (other than English) that is one of the official languages of the European Union, the 10th most spoken languages in the world (English is number 3, so all I need to learn is Chinese or Hindu and I can travel just about anywhere), the second most spoken language in North Dakota (???), and the fifth most spoken language in the US (however, this does include Pennsylvania Dutch, which is similar too, but not the same as High German).

Who cares that all the menus in Germany are also written in English? That all the important official people also speak English? That most people who hear my English accent think I am British?

I know German. And I first decided to study it, the language of a country that revels in logic and socialism, because I wanted to study art. I continued German because I had fallen in love, with the back and forth history, the incredibly strange sentence structure, and the Boyfriend. 

And I will continue it now. The water is up to my chest, might as well get my hair wet. 

But honestly, after this, I am picking a language less difficult than the hardest latin based language to learn. Español?

Note: All the facts/data in this post was pulled from wikipedia. So I didn't site it. Really, who cares. But the North  Dakota thing is true. 

Amelia's Top Ten Reasons To Live Abroad

1. Two words: Passport stamps. Which, is harder as the darn EU gives just one for coming in and one for leaving. So I have been to the Netherlands twice, and have no stamp. I have entered Germany six times and have 3 stamps. I have been in the Reykjavik-Keflavik International airport for 45 minutes, and have a stamp (from Iceland in case no one realized that). 
2. So if you can't get stamps, other souvenirs. And not just the magnets and tote bags:
• I have a small lego man dressed in Lederhosen. 
• I have a hand carved lizard from the Australian outback. 
• I have a small, Dutch penchant about cheese, that has a hole in it so its on my key chain.
3. And the souvenirs that many people won't notice:
• I learned how to paint with a pallet knife in Germany. 
• German makeup is way better.
• I found a bunch of really cool (and mostly English) songs that have never made it to the US. 
4. Your Facebook albums and Instagram look way cooler. 
• Millions of photos of Dutch tulips?
• Selfies next to 1000 year old churches?
• Tagging locations such as "London Bridge", "Amsterdam Centraal Main Station", and "Duck Pond in Germany".
5. You appreciate the little things your wonderful Home has:
• Girl Scout Cookies
• Crunchy Cheetos
• Cash back at registers
• Free bathrooms
• Free wifi
• Free wifi
• Free ketchup at McDonalds
• Free wifi
6. You meet new friends. This one is pretty obvious, if you are even the slightest bit social. But what has been great for me is that I have met friends who are in similar situations as me, either learning German, are other au pairs, other Americans in Germany, or all of the above. And you meet people from all over the world, which has greatly enhanced my worldview (thank you Whitworth). Hearing stories from peoples lives in Spain, Poland, Sweden, Texas (it is its own country, come on) has not only added to my wanderlust, but has made me realize that we are all so different, but at the core, are really the same. My Dutch friend may of grown up riding a bike everywhere, and once (or twice) actually wore wooden shoes, but we both love weird humor, our host kids, and have many matching views on politics and life. My friend from Spain may have seen less snow than me in our lives, speak more languages than me, and actually sell her art for money, but we did unknowingly buy the exact same dress. Things I have learned that are (or seem to be) universal:
• McDonalds is cheap food on the run, that is easy to order in any language. 
• A cup of coffee (or other hot beverage) can start any conversation. 
• Just about everyone has seen at least one episode of Friends. 
• People associate Seattle with Twilight. (sadness). 
• Obama is seen as a cool dude (despite your political standings). 
• No matter how much people hate on America, saying we get into crap wars and have a horrible education system, everyone wants to visit. (Mainly New York, Miami, and Las Vegas. Although I believe I have convinced a number of foreigners to see San Francisco). 
7. Independence. Sure, living in dorms give you independence. And then moving into an apartment with friends, then moving into a house with friends, then moving into an apartment or house alone. All independence. But living on the other side of the world, where not only are your parents not around but they are sleeping as there is a 9 hour time difference. You may not do your own laundry, but you have to figure out how to get around by bus, train, car, bike. Pay bills in a new land and language. Its like early adult life, but explained in gibberish. 
8. Being alone. This can be good. Even for extroverts. But for introverts like me, its heaven. In Germany I have felt really alone, sometimes to the point of becoming slightly depressed. But then I reveled in it. I can walk through a crowd, and the idea that everyone around me doesn't know my background, or nationality is freeing. Before I could eavesdrop in German, riding trains or buses, or waiting for such transport, made me feel like I was on Mars (but with Germans). But it was kind of fun. It was a puzzle to get myself from point A to point B, and if need be to wander about in my fragmented German to ask for help. 
9. Learning a new language. Its odd. Its really weird, to wake up and realize I dreamt in German. Or when I throw a German word into an English sentence and don't realize it. Or when I immediately respond to someone in German, without the usual preceding English thought. Or when I realized I was able to eavesdrop. Or talk to strangers. Order food. Buy things off of German Amazon. Read the newspaper. And when I started to understand about 2% of Dutch, as its fairly similar to German (reading mind you, I can only speak one word, the word for thank you, and I understand about 0.2% of Dutch I hear being spoken). When I started to be able to pick out different languages in a crowd. Dutch, Spanish, French, Russian, and that one is a strong Bavarian accent.
10. And the number one reason to live abroad? So you don't regret not doing it. My sisters and I are often told we are so lucky to be able to travel. We are not lucky, we work hard to be able to live out our dreams. And so can anyone. If I can get myself to Germany on one summer of making milkshakes in Colfax, so can you. Go watch the movie Up for more inspiration. 

You might drain your bank account. You might rip your favorite jeans. You might nearly throw up when trying a weird meatball recipe. You might nearly pee your pants as you don't have enough money for the bathroom. You may get lost and take the wrong train. You might stumble upon a castle. You might fall in love. You might find a candy better tasting than M&Ms. You may become addicted to sending postcards. You might become infected with the travel bug. 

But as my Grandpa once said, in referring to me moving to Germany, "This will be good. This will be good for you."

And at the end of the day.

Why not?

Tulips. Tulips. And more Flowers.

In realizing that I was only a three hour drive away from the famous Holland Tulips, my mother said, "you must go."

So I went. HA. Its that easy.

A trio of other au pairs and I first drove to Haarlem (of which the New York Harlem is named after). We saw some parade floats decorated in flowers.

 (Not shown, the tractor pulling the float, which was a New Holland!!!!) 

And then headed south, a quick twenty minute drive to the famous Keukerhof Gardens that house the majority of the Holland Tulips and sit right on the edge of the Tulip fields.

We decided to go to the slightly expensive gardens as the tulip fields were not all in bloom. It was the first weekend in May, and towards the end of an early blooming season. The gardens were well worth the visit.

Quick note, Holland, is simply a state name in The Netherlands. The country is not called, Holland. There is north and south Holland within The Netherlands. Its like calling the entire USA "Dakota". 

Within the gardens we found lots of flowers, and lots of photo opportunities.

There was a hedge maze.

A small petting zoo.

An orchid show.

And adorableness everywhere.

New Favorite German City

I spent Easter weekend with Boyfriend's family. His family lives just north of Berlin. As we were driving south, down to Dresden, where Boyfriend currently lives and studies. I mentioned that I think of Berlin as my favorite German city.

"Just wait." Boyfriend said, "You haven't seen Dresden yet."

I explained that I had. I had spent one week at the end of January 2009 in the smaller city of Dresden. It was bleeping cold. I was sick with an undiagnosed thyroid issue, and the most I remember from Dresden is falling asleep once I sat down in all the museums.

I remembered it as a grey, rich with history, freezing cold city.

We entered Dresden by car, and came down a hill that overlooked the city. The rooftops were shiny in the sunlight, the church spires tall, and there were blooming lilacs on every corner. I took as many blurry pictures from the car windows as my dying iPhone battery allowed.

View from Boyfriend's apartment.

The next day was a three hour cruise down the River Elbe, stopping and turning around at a grand palace partway down the river. The Elbe is now a resort area for Germany's rich and famous, and the old chateaus and palaces are cleaned up and stunning with vineyards and gardens.

 Oh look, just another castle. 

 The "Blue Wonder Bridge" an engineering miracle. 

Dresden was horribly bombed by the allied forces towards the end of WWII, and lost majority of its amazing architecture. During the war the city was a refugee center for women and children, and is where the Germans hid most of the valuable art. When the bombing began, many people fled to the large church, the Frauenkirche (Church of our Lady). The church was also destroyed. Rebuilt years later, the cross on top of the church was created and welded in Britain, and given as a gift to the city. While rebuilding the church, many of the same bricks were used. Which creates the patchwork architecture.

 Frauenkirche 

 Semperoper (Semper Opera House) 

 Zwinger, a palace in the city

 That was full of tourists (like me) I got trapped in an Italian travel group for a bit. 

Both of these buildings (the one in the back to the right is the Frauenkirche) are part of the Art Academy. The gold winged statue to the left is the goddess Nike, goddess of victory. Reminding everyone that art triumphs over all. 

 View of the Old City from the top of a church 

Just another street. 

Wednesday Boyfriend took me to the Grossergarten (the translation is simply, Big Garden) a huge park with a lot to offer. We had a picnic next to a kiddie train that ran around the entire park. 

Then started exploring. The flowers were blooming, ducks quacking, and more people than I realized were stuck in the nineties and rollerblading everywhere.

And as German custom has it, you turn a corner and there is a palace. 

Which had just been a simple summer home for some German king.

In true European Romantic fashion the sun began to set, and everything was beautiful and perfect. 

I spent all Thursday wandering the city. Going through the old buildings and palaces that I remember touring with my university. Then I headed to the new city, primarily the Kunstpassage, or art walk. I had a map, and directions, but wandered down one street and up another before seeing anything. Then I saw a man with a fanny pack and a large camera and followed him. The passage was between the two streets, in a courtyard. And was one of my favorite sites in the entire city. 

The buildings had been designed with cool facades. The buildings themselves housed apartments, and cute cafes and artsy shops. I loved it.

It happened to be garbage day on that Thursday. And the air smelled like warm cheese and old paper. I wandered the streets, covered with graffiti that was poignant and expected; a silhouette of Audrey Hepburn, a mouse eating a cat. 

I passed young men slurping ice cream cones as their frayed MC Hammer pants swayed in the breeze. An old woman grumbled as she shifted through a newspaper her pumpkin orange hair slightly greying. Artists shove cards depicting their pottery or felt necklaces into your hands, and they soon litter the sidewalk, reminiscent of Las Vegas. The tram stopped too soon. The beer garden started selling fish sandwiches at noon. Children hid in the lilacs, squealing.

Dresden had captured my heart. It had the sensibility of Frankfurt, the art of Berlin, and the chill West Coast vibe of San Francisco.